Basic Sewing Processes

SUB-TOPIC:             TEMPORARY AND PERMANENT STITCHES

STITCHING

Stiching is the process of passing threaded needle and thread in and out of a material to make a specific design. The design produced is made up of STITCHES.

IMPORTANCE OF STITICHES IN CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION

Stitches are used to:

1. Join two or more pieces of fabric together.
2. Make decorative designs on articles.
3. Mend tears in clothes.

TYPES OF STITCHES

There are broadly three types of stitches: the temporary, the permanent and the decorative stitches.

1. TEMPORARY STITCHES:

These hold pieces of fabric together temporarily. They are removed as soon as they have served their purposes. Examples of temporary stitches are:

1. EVEN BASTING OR TACKING: The stitches and spaces between them are equal. Work from right to left. Begin with the thread knotted or make a back stitch.
2. UNEVEN BASTING OR TACKING: This is made up 0f short and long stitches.
3. DIAGONAL BASTING: This is useful for holding together two or more layers of materials to prevent them from slipping out of position until finally stitching is completed. Start with a knotted thread. Push the needle vertically through all layers.
4. TAILOR’S TACKS: These are used for transferring pattern marking to two pieces of fabric at the same time. They are only suitable for thick strong cloth.

• PERMANENT STITCHES:

These are used for joining two or more separate pieces of material together permanently. The thread used should match the fabric in terms of texture and colour. Permanent stitches include:

1. RUNNING STITCHES: This is used in making a line or in joining two pieces of material. To make, start with two backstitches. Then push the needle tip in and out of the material, making small regular stitches. Work one stitch at a time.
2. BACK STITCH: This is a strong hand stitch that can be used in place of straight machine stitching. To make:
3. Fasten on the thread.
4. Take one long running stitch.
5. Take a stitch back, and then bring the needle out again a little way along the seam line.
6. Repeat to desired length.

1. OVER SEWING STITCH: This is a strong, fine, light stitch used to join finished edges together. To make:
2.  Bring folded edges together and insert needle through front edge.
3. Slip needle through edges, at right angles to them, picking up little material.
4. To end, sew back three or four stitches and slip needle between edges and cut thread.

1. HEMMING STITCH: This is a slanting stitch used to hold down garment hems. It is worked from the wrong side of the garment. To make:
2. Baste hem in position and press.
3. Sew from right to left securing the thread.
4. Slant the needle and pick about two threads from the fabric below the folded edge of the hem.
5. Continue and end with two backward stitches. Cut off the thread.

SIMPLE EMBROIDERY OR DECORATIVE STITCHES AND SEAM

CONTENT

EMBROIDERY OR DECORATIVE STITCHES

These are used for decorating the garments. Some can also be used for finishing raw edges. Examples include:

1. STEM STITCH: This is useful for outlining designs. To make:
2. Make the necessary design on fabric.
3. Insert the needle at the tip of the line to be stitched.
4. Bring the needle out half- way down the space made before.
5. The thread must be kept below the needle and the needle bought out exactly where the previous stitch finished.

• CHAIN STITCH: This gives an appearance of even back-stitch on the wrong side. To make
• Make necessary design.
• Fasten thread using backstitch.
• Bring out needle and the thread a short distance away.
• Repeat and continue until the end.
• Fasten thread and cut off.

• SATIN STITCH: This is used for filling design, in making appliqué, etc. To make:
• Draw the design or motif.
• Insert the needle at one edge of the design.
• Fasten with a few running stitches.
• Then insert needle again at the opposite edge.
• Return to the starting edge by passing the needle underneath the material.
• Repeat following the outline of the design.
• Make stitches close together and parallel.

• FRENCH KNOTS: This can give a seeded effect of a motif or design. There are different variations of the French knots.

• HERRING- BONE STITCH: This is worked at two levels. It appears the same on both the right and wrong sides of the article.

SEAMS

A seam is the line of stitching that joins two or more pieces of cloth. There are different types of seams. It is important to choose the correct seam for any given article or part of garment.

POINTS TO CONSIDER WHEN CHOOSING A SEAM

1. Kind of material or fabric being sewn. For instance, flat seams (e.g. run- and fell) are suitable for bulky materials like wool. French seam is suitable for thin material like silk.
2. Purpose or use of the garment. For instance, flat seams are suitable for night gowns.
3. The person to wear the clothes. For instance, flat seams such as run- and- fell seam are suitable for children’s clothes that require constant washing.
4. Position of the seam. For instance, lapped seam is suitable for curved seams.

TYPES OF SEAMS

1. OPEN OR PLAIN SEAM: This is the simplest and most commonly used seam. It has little bulk. It leaves raw edges that need to be finished or neaten. To make:
2. Place the right side of material together.
3. Mark seam line.
4. Pin, tack and sew from wrong side of fabric with proper seam allowance.
5. Remove tacking thread and press open the seam.
6. Finish or neaten the raw edges.

1. FRENCH SEAM: This is a flat seam. It does not show from the right side. All raw edges are completely enclosed. It is suitable for children’s clothes. To make:
2. Place wrong sides of fabric pieces together.
3. Pin and tack along fitting line (seam line).
4. Remove pins and sew 3- 6mm nearer the edge than seam line, using back- stitch or machine.
5. Trim the seam allowance carefully.
6. Remove tacking and fold the fabric right sides together.
7. Roll the seam between fingers and thumbs until stitching is along the edge.
8. Tack and press into place.
9. Sew along seam line.
10. Remove tacking and press.
11. RUN- AND- FELL SEAM: This lies flat with two rows of stitching on the right side of the garment. All raw edges are enclosed. Thus no extra neaten is required. It is strong and durable. To make:
12. Place wrong side fabric together and make a plain seam.
13. Press the seam to one side.
14. Trim the underneath seam allowance to about 3mm.
15. Trim the upper seam allowance to about 10mm.
16. Fold and press the upper seam allowance over the lower one.
17. Sew through all layers close to the folded edge. Press.

• LAPPED OR OVERLAID SEAM: This is visible on the right side. It is very strong. It is commonly used on curved or pointed seams where stitching from the inside is difficult. It is also used to give decorative effect. To make:
• Mark the lapping lines on each pieces of fabric.
• Turn under the seam allowance on the overlay to the wrong side.
• Press and tack into place.
• Prepare the underlay.
• Place the overlay right side up on the underlay. Match fitting lines, as well as patterns.
• Pin and tack the folded edge of the overlay onto the seam line of the underlay.
• Sew 3- 6mm from the fold through all layers
• Trim and neaten the seam allowances on the wrong side.

Evaluation:

1. What is embroidery stitches?
2. State five examples of embroidery stitches.
3. Define seams and give the examples

Assignment:

Make a chart showing different types of decorative stitches.

Evaluation:

1. Define stitching and stitches
2. Enumerates the importance of stitches
3. Classify stitches into temporary and permanent give their examples

Assignment:

1. What is embroidery stitches?
2. State five examples of embroidery stitches.