Seam and edge finishing

Seam is a line of stitching that joins two or more pieces of cloth. There are different types of seams e.g. open/ plain, French run and fell and lapped seams.

TYPES OF SEAM

All basics seams used in clothing construction are variants on four basic types of seams.

• Plain seams
• French seams
• Flat or abutted seams
• Lapped seams

1. A plain seamis the most common type of machine-sewn seam. It joins two pieces of fabric together face-to-face by sewing through both pieces, leaving a seam allowance with raw edges inside the work. The seam allowance usually requires some sort of seam finish to prevent raveling. Either piping or cording may be inserted into a plain seam.
2. In a French seam, the raw edges of the fabric are fully enclosed for a neat finish. The seam is first sewn with wrong sides together, then the seam allowances are trimmed and pressed. A second seam is sewn with right sides together, enclosing the raw edges of the original seam.
3. In a flator abutted seam, two pieces of fabric are joined edge-to edge with no overlap and sewn with hand or machine stitching that encloses the raw edges. Antique or old German seam is the 19th century name for a hand-sewn flat seam that joins two pieces of at their selvages. This type of construction is found in traditional linen garments such as shirts and chemises, and in hand-made sheets pieced from narrow loom widths of linen.
4. In a lapped seam, the two layers overlap with the wrong side of the top layer laid against the right side of the lower layer. Lapped seams are typically used for bulky materials that do not ravel, such as leather and felt.
5. SEAM FINISHING

Seam finishes are basic sewing processes used to neaten the raw edges of a seam, especially the open seam. A seam finish is a treatment that secures and neatens the raw edges of a plain seam to prevent raveling, by sewing over the raw edges or enclosing them in some sort of binding.

ADVANTAGES OF SEAM FINISHING

1. It prevents the raw edges from fraying
2. It prolonged the life of the articles
3. It makes the finished work neat
4. It give the finished work a professional look
5. SEAM FINISHING PROCESS
6. Pinking: Finishing with pinking shears for bulky fabrics that do not fray
7. Over casting is suitable for all fabrics
8. Edge stitching: Good for fabrics that fray
9. zigzag
10. Bound seam finishing: For fabrics that fray easily

POINTS TO CONSIDER IN SEAM FINISHING

1. Type of Fabrics: The type of fabrics will determine the type of seam finish to use e.g. fabrics that will not fray. Pinking finishing can be used, fabrics that fray you cab use edge stitching.
2. The use to be made for the article
3. Position of the seam
4. EDGE FINISHING

Edge Finishing: Is the process of neatening the edges of articles or garments. Edge finishing process include pinking, overcasting, edge stitching, zigzag finishing and bond finishing.

USES OF EDGE FINISHING

1. to neaten the edge of the garment
2. to secure the edge and prevent fraying and raveling of fabric
3. to decorate an edge e.g. using bias binding for finishing necklines and armholes

POINTS TO CONSIDER IN EDGE FINISHING

1. The type of material or fabric e.g.  closely woven fabrics which do not fray or ravel may be finished with pinking shears
2. The shape of the edge to be finished. Curved edge that stretch e.g necklines, armholes can be finished with bias binding
3. The purpose of the finishing, for instance the finishing can be for decoration with some bound finishes.

Assessment.

1. Mention and explain the 4 basic types of Seams.
2. What are the advantages of Seam finishing?
3. What are the points to consider in Edge finishing?
4. List 5 Seam finishing process.